Each month at Flaharty Bits - Spurs we are going to
give some unsolicited training advice.
We hope everyone, including ourselves, can learn from our blog.
Additionally, we plan to coerce all our friends that our horsemen and horsewoman in various industries for their advice.
BE PREPARED FOR THE CALL!
January 2011 Tip From The Top - Top Futurity Trainer & Rider Bo Hill
The number one problem that I see people make when they bit their horses is that they pull the bit up tight in the horses mouth. This is not how most bits were designed to work. The mouthpiece of the bit should barely be touching the corners of the horses mouth. Horses learn from release of pressure. If the bit is always tight in the horses mouth there is no release of pressure..even if the horse is doing what we ask. When the mouthpiece is properly positioned there is NO pressure until you ask for the pressure.
January Bit Tip from Troy Flaharty - For most bits I prefer to use a leather chin-strap. If the chinstrap is more severe or thinner than the mouth piece it will apply more pressure than the mouthpiece therefore sending a confusing signal to the horse.
February 2011 Tip From The Top - NFR Qualifier PJ Burger
In barrel racing, the 1st barrel is the money barrel. I like to take a horse straight down the center of the pen inline with the 3rd barrel, stay there a little longer than most. This gives your horse the room he needs to turn the barrel fast.
February Bit Tip from Troy Flaharty- Many people think that using a more "severe" bit will make their horses hard mouthed. Actually, in my opinion, the opposite is true. I see people using "mild" bits or mouthpieces, but they are constantly pulling and using a lot of pressure to get a response. Using a more "severe" bit requires less pressure to get a response, which will actually keep your horse lighter. Remember...a bit is only as severe as the person pulling on it!
Troy Flaharty
March Tip From The Top -
Brad Lund 3 Time AQHA Super Horse & Top 10 World's Greatest Horsemen
Multiple AQHA Championships in multiple events.
When I have a horse that gaps its mouth with a bridle bit I will try a bit with a
wider port for more tongue relief. You can regulate tongue relief by the position of the cricket; a bit with the cricket towards the top of the port will allow more tongue relief and a bit with the cricket towards the bottom of the port you will increase tongue pressure.
The first time I introduce a bridle bit to a horse I will always use a loose soft leather chin strap. I want the horse to react to the pressure of the mouth piece not the pressure of the chin strap.
Troy Flaharty - It is the time of year when everyone is starting 2 year olds. I think something to remember is it is better to work with them 15 minutes every day then 2 hours 3 days a week. A 2 year old has a short attention span. It is better to quit when they make a little progress.

April 2011 Tip From The Top - Top Futurity Trainer & Rider Cody Hyde
When I am training a colt, I only have a few rules that I try to be really conscious about. One of those is that the horse should keep its shoulders or front end moving forward and reaching for more ground all the way around the turn. When I am riding with clients I will often get off and draw a circle in the dirt with my boot about 3 to 4 feet from the barrel all the way around. Regardless of the speed i am working, I always want to slightly shape my horses so that their front feet are at least on that line or on the outside of it. I want horses back end to be on that circle or to the inside of it. This will keep the horses hip, or motor, up under them where it can provide power and will keep the front feet moving forward and the momentum up. Hopefully the result is a fast, round, smooth turn.
Troy Flaharty - On horses that are naturally low headed you want to use a bit with a longer purchase, like a gag, to elavate their head and shoulders. On horses that are naturally high headed use a bit with a shorter purchase, like a bridle bit, to bring their head and shoulders down.
